Most Commonly Asked Questions & Answers
Q: What is my 1943 steel penny worth?
A: The 1943 steel cent is worth about five cents in average circulated condition. During World War II, copper was needed for the war effort, so pennies were struck in steel and coated with zinc. While they look unique, most are very common and have minimal value unless in uncirculated condition or a rare error variety.
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Q: How do I clean my coin?
A: Don’t clean your coins. Cleaning greatly reduces their value because collectors and investors prefer coins with original, natural toning and surfaces.​
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Q: What is my silver dime, quarter, or half dollar worth?
A: U.S. silver coins are valued mainly by their silver content. Coins dated 1964 and earlier are 90% silver, while Kennedy half dollars from 1965 to 1970 are 40% silver. Their true value is determined by the current melt (bullion) price.​
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Q: What is my Sacagawea or Presidential dollar worth?
A: These coins are worth their face value of one dollar. They remain readily available at most banks.
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Q: What is my Presidential or Bicentennial coin worth?
A: Both Presidential and Bicentennial coins hold only their face value in circulated condition.
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Q: How can I tell if my coin is valuable?
A: A coin’s value depends on its date, mint mark, condition, rarity, and demand among collectors. If you think you have a valuable coin, avoid cleaning it and consider having it professionally appraised.
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Q: Where is the mint mark on my coin?
A: The mint mark’s location depends on the coin type and year. For most U.S. coins, it appears near the date on the obverse (front) or on the reverse (back). Common mint marks include “P” (Philadelphia), “D” (Denver), “S” (San Francisco), and “W” (West Point).
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Q: Should I get my coins graded?
A: If you have a rare or high-value coin, professional grading by a reputable service (like PCGS, NGC or CAC) can authenticate and preserve its condition — and may increase its market value.
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Q: What is a proof coin?
A: Proof coins are specially struck with polished dies and planchets, creating a high-quality, mirror-like finish. They are usually sold to collectors and often have higher value than regular circulation coins.
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Q: Where can I sell my coins?
A: You can sell coins to reputable coin dealers, at coin shows, through auction houses, or online marketplaces. Always compare offers and work with trusted buyers.
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Q: What is a coin’s melt value?
A: Melt value is the intrinsic metal value of a coin based on its precious metal content — such as silver, gold, or platinum — regardless of its collectible or numismatic worth.
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Q: Are error coins valuable?
A: Some coins with minting errors (like doubled dies, off-center strikes, or wrong planchet strikes) can be highly sought after and worth significantly more than face value. Authenticating errors with an expert is recommended.
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Q: How should I store my coins?
A: Store coins in a cool, dry place in acid-free holders or coin flips. Avoid PVC holders, as they can damage coins over time. Handle coins by the edges to prevent fingerprints.
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Q: What is a wheat penny worth?
A: Most wheat pennies (minted 1909–1958) are worth 2–5 cents each in circulated condition. Key dates, like 1909-S VDB or 1914-D, can be worth significantly more depending on condition.​
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Q: What is a proof coin?
A: A proof coin is specially struck using polished dies and planchets to create a mirror-like finish with sharp details. Proof coins are usually made for collectors and sold by the U.S. Mint.
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Q: What does “mint mark” mean?
A: A mint mark is a small letter on a coin indicating where it was made. For example, “D” is Denver, “S” is San Francisco, and “P” is Philadelphia (though many older coins from Philadelphia have no mint mark).
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Q: What is a coin’s melt value?
A: Melt value is the current value of the metal content in a coin if it were melted down. It is commonly used to value silver and gold coins based on current market prices.
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Q: Are state quarters worth anything?
A: Most state quarters (1999–2008) are only worth face value in circulated condition. Uncirculated or error varieties may carry a small premium to collectors.
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Q: What is a coin grade?
A: A coin’s grade is a measure of its condition and quality, ranging from Poor (P-1) to Perfect Uncirculated (MS-70). Grading significantly affects value.
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Q: What is the difference between circulated and uncirculated coins?
A: Circulated coins have been used in everyday transactions and show wear, while uncirculated coins have not been used and retain their original mint luster and detail.
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Q: Are gold dollar coins real gold?
A: Modern U.S. dollar coins like the Sacagawea and Presidential series are not made of gold; they are brass-clad manganese and only gold in color.
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Commonly Asked Sports Card Questions & Answers
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Q: How do I know what my sports cards are worth?
A: Card value depends on the player, year, brand, condition, rarity, and market demand. Checking recent sales on platforms like eBay and consulting professional price guides can help determine current market value.
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Q: Should I get my sports cards graded?
A: Grading can significantly increase a card’s value, especially if it is in excellent condition or is a rare rookie card. Professional grading services like PSA, BGS, and SGC authenticate and assign a grade that buyers trust.
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Q: What is the best way to store my sports cards?
A: Store cards in penny sleeves and top loaders or graded card holders. Keep them in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to prevent fading or warping.
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Q: Are my cards from the 1980s and 1990s worth anything?
A: Many cards from the “junk wax era” (late 1980s–1990s) were mass-produced, so most hold low value. However, some key rookie cards, error cards, or cards in pristine graded condition can be worth more.
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Q: What is a rookie card?
A: A rookie card is the first officially licensed card of a player in a major set. Rookie cards are often the most sought-after and valuable in a player’s card lineup.
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Q: What does it mean if my card is a “parallel” or “insert”?
A: Parallels are versions of base cards with different colors, serial numbers, or finishes. Inserts are special themed cards included at lower odds within packs. Both can hold premium value depending on rarity and player featured.
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Q: How can I sell my sports cards?
A: You can sell cards online through marketplaces like eBay or COMC, at local card shops, card shows, or through auction houses specializing in sports memorabilia. Researching recent sales helps you price cards fairly.
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Q: What is a card’s condition grade based on?
A: Grades consider centering, corners, edges, and surface. Professional graders use strict standards to assess these factors before assigning a numeric grade (usually 1–10).
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Q: What is an autograph or relic card?
A: Autograph cards feature a signature from the player, while relic cards contain a piece of game-used equipment, such as jersey or bat fragments, embedded in the card.
Q: Are unopened packs or boxes worth anything?
A: Yes, sealed packs and boxes can be valuable, especially older products with potential high-value rookie cards or inserts inside. Collectors often pay premiums for sealed items due to the excitement and scarcity.